How H&M is Moving Towards Sustainable Supply Chains
H&M joins forces with biomaterials company Keel Labs to bring Kelsun, a seaweed-derived fibre, into its fashion supply chain, aligning with broader goals to transition toward sustainable sourcing and production methods.
The partnership sees the launch of a summer line made with Kelsun, as the brand looks to scale regenerative materials across its operations.
For supply chains, this collaboration marks a tangible step towards integrating alternative fibres that offer lower environmental impact and more transparent traceability.
Seaweed enters fibre sourcing models
Kelsun is made using seaweed, a fast-growing marine organism that sequesters carbon dioxide from oceans in the way that trees do on land. In its processed form, seaweed is combined with a bio-based fibre to create a non-woven textile suitable for garments.
The fibre is non-toxic and free from microplastics, making it safe for marine and human environments. Once discarded, Kelsun naturally decomposes without leaving behind pollutants.
Keel Labs, the firm behind Kelsun, first released the fibre commercially in 2024 following a collaboration with British designer Stella McCartney.
The H&M partnership sees the product make its way onto the high street, reaching a broader consumer base and embedding the fibre in more complex retail and distribution systems.
Aleks Gosiewski, Co-Founder and Chief Executive Officer at Keel Labs, describes the project’s origins in material waste concerns during her time as a design student.
She says: “At the end of the day, our goal is simple: we want to create materials that allow fashion brands to meet their sustainability goals without compromising on quality or performance.”
“We urgently need climate-positive change, and we need it now – but we’re in it together.”
Supply chain integration begins with material sourcing, and H&M’s use of Kelsun aligns with wider efforts to replace conventional fabrics with low-impact alternatives.
Cecilia McNeil, Sustainability Manager at H&M, says the company continues to look for innovations that match product functionality with environmental responsibility. “We continuously seek new technologies and materials to evolve our designs. For us, fashion and innovation are intertwined.”
For this collection, H&M uses the natural hue of the fibre, avoiding dyeing processes altogether.
Cecilia adds: “Using the natural colour of the fibre also felt essential, no dyeing techniques were used; the set is presented in its purity.”
Supply chain targets
Kelsun is one of several materials H&M is trialling as part of its supply chain overhaul.
Others include regenerative wool from NATIVA and recycled silver recovered via urban mining—a process that extracts materials from post-consumer electronics and other waste sources.
- In 2025, H&M aims to source 30% of commercial goods using certified recycled materials
- By 2030, it targets 100% of materials either recycled or sustainably sourced, using 2019 as the baseline year. The company achieved nearly 30% progress towards this goal by 2024
- Carbon emissions across the supply chain—known in corporate reporting as Scope 1, Scope 2, and Scope 3—are also targeted
- H&M is aiming to reduce these emissions by 56% by 2030 compared to 2019 levels
Chemical use in production is also under review.
The company intends to ensure that 100% of chemicals used in its tier one and two production factories will comply with the Manufacturing Restricted Substances List issued by the Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC) programme.
Innovation meets expansion
Despite its environmental advantages—no fertiliser or pesticides required, carbon absorption from the sea, and full biodegradability—Kelsun and other seaweed-based textiles still face supply chain hurdles.
Chief among them is cost. Production of seaweed fibres remains more expensive than traditional textiles like cotton or polyester.
Scaling up remains a challenge, as global demand for affordable, sustainable fibres continues to rise.
Additionally, combining seaweed fibre with other materials can complicate recycling processes, reducing circularity in the product lifecycle. Still, Keel Labs sees momentum.
Aleks credits the expansion into H&M Group and & Other Stories stores to teams open to material change: “It all started with seaweed and now Kelsun is on shelves around the globe through our launch with & Other Stories, made possible by the visionary team there and at H&M Group.”
She concludes: “To our team at Keel Labs, thank you for your dedication, creativity, and hard work to build a better future!”
As the company looks towards a more sustainable future, its supply chain impact is sure to grow on a more positive scale.
